The early weeks of spring have been filled with nature’s heralds in north Florida as they announce the return of warmer weather in a nearly infinite variety of ways. Butterflies have returned, frogs and toads harmonize at night, and leaves have emerged on deciduous plants and trees, obscuring the surrounding terrain’s details.
Many native annuals have begun their lifecycle with colorful blooms. The burst of hues encompasses nearly every shade in the rainbow, but most are short lived in the environment.
While there are many advantages to using native plants in the home landscape, the short bloom time is often used as a reason to select other options. One of those “other” options which produces attractive tones for a longer time period is flowering bulbs.
Amaryllis bulbs planted in autumn and late winter add to spring’s color show. These flowering bulbs come in many color shades and combinations.
The planting site selection in the home landscape is important from several perspectives. Flowering bulbs usually require full to lightly filtered sun, so the position of adjacent trees, plants and structures must be considered in relation to the sun’s daily position in the sky.
Depending on the selection of a species or cultivar, the cost for the choice can be low to moderate. It is important to remember that mass plantings will be necessary to maximize the visual effect, so the total installation expense should be considered when purchasing multiple bulbs.
Another cost consideration, in both money and time, is bed preparation. Most of these plants flourish in well drained but organically rich soils with an acidic pH rating.
The pH can be measured by conducting a soil test in the planting bed area. The UF/IFAS Extension Service, along with some private soil laboratories, offers this analysis service for a small fee.
To adjust or maintain the optimal soil pH there are several activities which will promote the growth and flowering of the bulbs. The technique’s selection depends on the length of time available before planting.
If several seasons are available before planned planting, then trench composting with leaves is a good starting point. Trench composting is digging out the bed, filling the hole with leaves and pine straw, and covering the hole with the excavated soil.
During the following months, the mulch will break down into usable nutrients enriching the soil and lowering the pH. The mound of soil in the bed site will gradually return to its pre-trenching level as the leaves and pine straw decay.
A quicker solution will be to use peatmoss. Tilling in this organic matter with an acidic pH will ready the bed for planting, and it is readily available for purchase at nurseries and garden centers in the panhandle region.
The fastest way to lower the soil’s pH is to add garden sulfur. This technique does not add useful organic matter and too much sulfur will create more problems than it solves.
Once the planting bed is ready, plant the flowering bulbs at the time and depth based on their specific species. Mulch should be about 4 inches of leaves and/or pine straw, and be sure to irrigate if rains do not provide sufficient moisture.
In addition to the bloom cycle’s length, another advantage of flowering bulbs is they do not tend to be invasive. So, use blooming natives and flowering bulbs to fully enjoy spring’s varied tones.
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