Waste Not, Want Not: Mulching and Composting

The seasonal weather has many homeowners returning to chores in their yards. The lawn has to be mowed, weeds pulled, new plants installed and on and on.

The effort usually produces positive results. The neat, well-kept appearance delivers an inviting environment and, best yet, the envy of neighbors and visitors.

The yard work also produces waste products. Recently deceased weeds, leaf litter, pine straw and other detritus which too often needlessly ends up in the county’s possession via trash collection.

A better option is using these byproducts as either mulch or to produce compost. If used in the home landscape, as opposed to being hauled off, local tax funds will be put to more productive projects.

Composting can be easy and simple. A pile of organic material kept moist and turned periodically will produce a nutrient-rich additive.

Leaf litter and pine straw are useful for plant beds. If next to a building just be sure to leave a few inches between the mulch and the building.

If in contact with the structure, mulch offers an excellent habitat for insects and fungi. The same is true when using leaves and pine straw next to trees and woody ornamentals.

Composting takes more planning and thought, but it can result in a nutrient-rich additive. A site out of view is needed where the material can be converted to the end product.

True composting will take months, not days or weeks. It also takes water to support the organisms which are participating in the conversion.

Additionally, the potential compost must be periodically turned. The repositioning allows for all material to degrade.

To be completely successful, there are items which are degradable but should not be included in the composting. Their inclusion will result in problems, both short and long term.

Cool season weeds which are currently laden with seeds should not be used in compost or mulch. It is true most of the seeds will likely be killed by the heat of composting, the microbial activity, or the worms and insects.

Still there is a high probability some of the weed seeds will survive. The vigor and vitality of weed seeds, especially some of the non-native pest species, is truly enviable.

Wherever the contaminated compost is used there will be a flush of the weeds in question. The seeds which survive the rigors of composting will be the strongest and will most likely flourish, even in unhospitable environments.

Diseased plants are another no-no for mulching or composting. Spores from fungal diseases are easily spread and can quickly invade healthy plants.

If placed in a flower bed and covered with mulch, the dead plant becomes a reservoir for problems. If composted, the plant and all the spores must go through a heating process of 145 to 150 degrees to guarantee containment.

Very rarely does this happen.

Wood scraps can take years to breakdown. If in mulch, a section of a branch can become the host for a variety of destructive insects, including termites.

Over ripe and unusable fruit and vegetables can be taken from the refrigerator and placed in the compost pile, with some restrictions. If combined with cooking oils, meat scraps or dairy products, there will be problems.

Rodents and late-night foragers like raccoons will be attracted to the compost heap. They will scatter the composting material and leave some unsanitary byproducts of their own.

Spring is a great time to make a waste product into a resource. Just do it in a way that does not cost more than it saves.

About the author
Les Harrison

Les Harrison is a longtime resident of north Florida, having attended public schools in three counties. He has a Bachelor Degree from the University of Florida in Journalism and a Master’s of Science from Auburn University in Agricultural Economics. He is the author of more than 2000 newspaper and magazine stories and journal articles. During his career, he held positions in private, government and educational (university level) sectors. He holds the title of Extension Agent Emeritus. He can be reached at harrison.gl@gmail.com.

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