The Dwarf Cypress Trees of Tate’s Hell State Forest

Florida, in decades past, was known for its roadside attractions. Any oddity or unique curiosity which would get tourists to stop and leave their money was utilized.

Frequently, with some creative license, the attraction was featured on a billboard located on the nearest byway. Two-headed snakes, albino alligators, three-leg chickens or some other freak of nature were the draw.

Of course there was usually the entry fee to see the unfortunate creature or creation. Occasionally such a fee was waived, but there would be a fee to exit.

For those who wished to carry tangible souvenirs along with their memories of the visit, there was the “gift shop”. Plaster figurines, key chains, post cards and the like were available (at an absurd price). Most were made in overseas.

Fortunately the days of these highway tourist-traps has long passed, but there are still roadside attractions worth a visit. One of those is the Dwarf Cypress forest in the Tate’s Hell State Forest in Franklin County.

The road sign indicating this eccentricity of nature is easy to miss. Located a few miles east of the gulf coast town of Eastpoint, Florida, on U.S. 98, the entrance faces the inter-coastal waterway across from Saint George Island.

There are a few parking spots and a one lane road leading into the forest. It may appear to be a hiking trail, but a five mile walk one-way would be necessary to reach the designated area. Driving is highly recommended for all but the most hike-happy.

Pines, cypress and other native trees line the lime rock topped road. In some spots the way is just barely above swampy spots, no doubt occupied by many reptilian and amphibian residents of the area.

After a solitary ride through the woods, another small sign indicates arrival at the dwarf cypress area. More parking is available and an elevated walkway leads to a viewing area, but no other civilized amenities are present (absolutely none!!!).

The walkway is handicap accessible and quickly rises to approximately 25 feet above the forest floor, much of which is covered with a shallow layer of water stained black by tannins. The dwarf cypress trees flourish in a thick grove for over a mile, shading out competing species.

In winter the leafless trees stand in stark gray contrast to the still green pines and water oaks which grow on the surrounding land which rises above the cypress’ watery domain. It is easy to see the patchy grasses and shrubs which are shielded from the bright summer sun and its associated heat.

Wading birds casually plunder the cool pools for an easy meal with the occasional cries of these avian residents emitting eerily from unseen havens. Light breezes stir the lichens and mosses breaking the deafening silence.

Summers are quite different. The cypress’ canopies form a uniformly green carpet obscuring details of the life and actions below the branches.

Birds, bugs and frogs provide a constant chorus of chirps, peeps, grunts and clicks during the day. The sound accelerates to a riotous level as the light dims in the evening. Mosquitos hum, beetles buzz and night birds screech, hoot and grunt as lightning bugs zig-zag through the darkness with flickering lime-tinted illumination.

The cypress trees are dwarfs because of nutrient deficiency. The soil beneath them is sandy and usually saturated. What little plant nutrients do become available are either quickly absorbed or leached away.

Planted on land where organic matter was much more plentiful, these trees would reach their genetic potential. As the centuries pass their girth would expand and there canopies would exceed 100 feet.

Fate, fortune or random destiny has placed them in this concentrated and stunting environment. This roadside attraction is open to all who are willing to spend a little time to see the real north Florida.  

What to expect: The site is easy to traverse, but there are absolutely no facilities or amenities. Bring mosquito repellant in the summer along with any food or water necessary. This site may be inaccessible during heavy rains.